The bus ride to Oslo Rygge Airport was really expensive. We paid 120kr each. (almost 30 SGD)
Which led me to double confirm, that Oslo Rygge Airport really really sucks. Just get a ticket from Oslo Gardemeon, even if it is more expensive (cos it kinda evens out eventually). It was a darn long bus ride. I wonder why they built an airport halfway between Oslo and Sweden, and call it "Oslo" Airport.
Nevertheless, we reached the airport, and I was to find out the hard way later, it is probably the only Norwegian Airport with internet connection and a typing keyboard.
Amazing view from the plane like these, make you feel, the Air flight is really enjoyable. And the price of the Air ticket, more justifiable.
Welcome to Bodo. We reached Bodo Airport. Anne said its like the smallest Airport she ever seen. It never really felt to me like I was already in the Arctic. everything felt normal. Until we started walking into the carpark area, and you realise the roads are completely frozen. Even more frozen than those in Oslo. We almost fell a few times.
Frozen road (I wonder how the cars get in really. Did their wheels have spikes?)
Avoid walking on the ice road. Walk instead on the more friction area. Unless you have a roller luggage that goes really well on ice.
At this point, Anne exclaimed "We're into the polar circle! Are we crazy! I would never imagine coming this far up North" Later on the ferry across the Arctic sea, I would tell her that Im from way South, at the equator. I would never even more think of coming this North.
The ice/snow in the arctic is really kinda crazy and frustrating. You have roads that are complete in layers of ice. And you have some areas, where the snow and ice has become so soft, your feet and leg would sink into it. Making it almost impossible to walk. Imagine putting your feet and a part of your leg into ice. That's how it felt. And then you have to try to pull it out, without any support. Cos both your legs are as much sunken.
We were early for the ferry. So they decided to look for a cafe. This one is really cosy :). Im not a coffee fan. Checked out the sushi prices and realise that are insanely overprice for a small piece.
At the ferry.
On the ferry. This is Bodo, a fishing town.
With pretty and small rock islands around.
Inside the ferry, called Hutituken.
On the ferry, Enjoying the view of the Arctic Sea. Really really enjoying it.
Forward!
Amazing arctic sea. Nice to look at but you dont wanna touch it.
We participated in the Arctic Baptism ceremony. Anne first noticed it and said "John you should do it" And of cos, it thrilled me to do it. Then, they refused to do it. I thought: how could anyone not do it. besides, she asked me to do it. I tried to persuade her but she refused. Then, as fate would have it, the perfect opportunity came. I stood at the ceremony area, after completing mine. Until there were no one left. The baptism monster looked at me. I looked at Anne and said out loud "Do it" The baptism monster heard it, looked at her, and the both of us keep pressuring her to do it. The lure of the monster was too strong. She gave in. Anna later joined. The baptism was simple. Just putting of ice cubes into your layers of shirt.
After the whole thing, we each received certificates to being baptised in the Arctic. Anne was so proud and so extremely glad that she did it. She could not stop taking pictures of the cert w herself.
We walk around the ferry in circles, looking for new sights and warmer corners.
She finally introduced the pig she carry all along. The pig's name is punchin. Which means small dot in german (if im not wrong). Her bf gave it to her b4 she came to Norway. And ever since, she has been taking pictures with it all the time. I said "ur bf must be proud of u" She replied "he better be."
When it gets too cold outside, we seek refuge inside the cosy quiet area, while still being able to enjoy the awesome view.
- End of the first sail across on the arctic sea -
We arrive at Lofoten late. And could not find the hostel. There appears to be only 1 hostel. Along the way, they stopped at a lamppost to look at the map. Only to realise that the light has been turned upside down and facing the sky instead. Damn coincidental. I wonder why anyone would do that, even in Sg. Here, perhaps to spoil tourist view of the Northern Lights. But 1 lamppost would not make much difference anyway.
Finally, we reached the hostel. They did. Cos they were the ones who booked it. I on the other hand, wanted to experience sleeping outdoors, and save some money. The gulf stream made Lofoten seemingly warmer than Oslo. So I thought I would manage.
Unpacked, and put on 9 layers of clothes. These are the food that I had previously prepared. As it turned out, I forgot that food turned bad really fast, especially cooked food. The box of brocolli and sausage turned bad, bcos the cooked brocolli stinks. Since there were no dustbin nearby, I dumped it into the Lofoten harbour.
I was really just waiting for Anne and Anna to come out to pick me up. But I waited for hours and they were still not out. I peeked into the window several times and they were busy chatting. Later I would find out, they met 2 german guys and decided to dump me.
Once, they came out to look for me, but I just took a slight turn and they missed me. So, they went for a walk without me. Then suddenly, I received a call from Anne "John you can see the northern lights from behind". Somehow, I heard it as "John, u can find us from behind" So I searched the place and found them not. I decided to enter the hostel, despite not paying and asked for the girls. The 2 german guys greeted me and made tea for me. They had heard about my crazy stories from the girls and my plan to sleep outside. They were sure that I would freeze to death. Later I would find out, they were right indeed. They just could not believe me. I called Anne and realised that she meant the Northern lights. I rushed out and saw nothing. I started to wonder if fate just refuse to let me see.
At night, I took a walk. Lofoten is simply a ghost town. I start to wonder why I was here with Anne and Anna. Anne is suppose to be really street-smart. Would she come to a place just to see this? Well. I scare the shit out of a few passerbys, who gave me strange stares and one of them, out of fear, said hi to me. I really do look like a terrorist/crook/robber in this.
At night, I decided to take a sleep at the bench outside the hostel. It shielded me slightly from the wind. It is almost impossible to avoid the wind in Lofoten, on any benches. After only 1 hour into my sleep, I woke up and broke in coldness. The cold had gotten into my bones, and I felt like Im running a temperature of 40 degrees. My body knew it could not take it anymore. I had to find a shelter, or die. So I sneaked into the hostel, and slept on the floor, outside the toilet.
I woke up again at 4am, and almost froze to death, bcos the floor was too cold. So I took my chance again, and sneaked into the main dinning area, with a bed. I slept on the bed, in fear that I would get caught. Then again, I was so cold, I think my life is more important than other things like get caught and paying for it.
So, everytime I hear footsteps, I would try to sit up, sit on the bench or something, and pretend that I was not sleeping, but merely waiting for friends here. A guy saw me sitting on the bench and falling asleep with my head on the table and ask "Are you ok?". I realised, that the hostel master would not come. So I slept. I was really really so tired. And the cold makes your body shut down really.
The next day, the girls set off, following the 2 german boys. And as you can see, they dumped me behind, cos my still injured leg was too slow. The 'wonders' of female hormones.
This day, they walked like 20 over kilometres. For the first 10-15km, I followed them. Just because I dont say anything, and my beloved leg was able to take it, does not mean that it still can. After that, it collapse. So this was a ridiculous day for me. First, they took a bus to Leknes, just to discover they were too Early for the next bus. So they walked kilometres, just to find a cafe. This habit of Europeans looking for cafe really really really sickens me already. Then, they were Late for the bus to the ferry station back to the hostel. Fucking amazing nuts. I had to walk kilometres to the ferry station with them. Saving grace is that Anna carried my bag for me. But then, carry carry lah. She gave up halfway and passed my bag to Anne. Anne gave up and said something not so nice to me. So. I was really really pissed. Then the 2 girls left me. And the german guy said that I should rest the next day and not join the girls. His objective was obvious. It was not so much as he cared about me, but that he cared that I slowed down the girls. In short, he cared about them. The 4 germans, on that day, sickened me so thoroughly, that at the ferry, I was so damn glad that they left me (again). Eventually, they were 30mins early for the early. I wonder why they had to walk so fast, and make me walk so fast as well. I was so SO SO glad to rest and fell asleep on the ferry.
They dumped me. This picture was taken using zoom. They are far far ahead.
The only saving grace, walking kilometres, was this. There is a mirror image of the sun and the clouds helped it looked like there were 2 suns.
Nevertheless, they were on the way to the museum. I thought to myself: Did not I read on the internet that the museum is closed in winter? Besides, museums are a complete waste of money and simply the worst tourist trap. They just put a few wax figures that and command so much money. I wanted to say it. But then, I rmbed what Anne said that day: "We are following them, bcos they have been here for sometime, so they know this place better". Right. So I decided to keep queit, knowing that Im just one person, a half-broken leg asian guy, among 4 fit germans, in Europe.
(Picture like this below, makes me feel kinda not so 'nue-dai'. It looks like a double sun. The arctic sun, always has this mirror image of itself. The clouds also helped to make this more convincing. Later, I will show a sun set, that also has a mirror image, without clouds)
Fucking crazy long walk to the ferry. I felt like killing them. At that point, I thought: Asians would not leave their friends behind. Cos we are collectivistic culture. Not as individualistic as them. At that point, I wished I had Asians travel mates with me.
My only saving grace walking to the ferry, is the sight below. By then, I figured that they would never wait for me (200-300 metres ahead of me). So there is no point in me trying to catch them. I was prepared to completely abandon them or let them abandon me. Since I figured that people who dont wait for you arent worth your attention either. So I stopped by, and carefully adjusted my camera settings to take this shot.
At the ferry finally, I was glad that they left me to go to the upper deck. I was too tired to move. I fell asleep for 30 mins and woke up to find the ferry still not moving. That was when I felt that the germans would rather walk faster, to reach this ferry early, than to slow down for my sake. Despite Anne coming to sweet talk me again, using words like an expressive white cultured person would, I could not be moved. In Asia, you learn that actions speak louder than words.
My leg was hurting so bloody bad, it felt like I completely busted it. After resting for 1 hour, and asking the reception some questions to plan my other trip, I decided to go out and look at the arctic sea by night. It was so dark, I could only see faint mountain outlines.
I alighted the ferry first. A german boy came down to shake my hand, however unconvinced I am by the gesture. I alighted first, and then the 2 german girls came down, and uttered their usual words of concern that they were worried about me. Again, I am already thorougly unconvinced.
That night, while walking back, they actually slowed down for me, which leads me to confirm that they abandoned me bcos of the german boys. We chatted while we walked. And they talked about how bad they feel that the first night, I slept on the hostel bed at 4am and did not pay. So they will try their best to keep quiet about it. I was Very surprised. So I asked them if they also felt bad that I dont pay for my transport ticket. Anna remarked that she felt angry. She said that in Germany, she would feel ashamed of these people. Cos the government trusted them and helped them so much, they should help the society and government back by being a responsible citizen. I remarked that I am not a citizen of Norway, neither are they. But she said that Norwegians are really nice helpful people, so they would feel bad. I thought how stupid. Norwegians arent nice in my opinion. They insist that Social Democracy works. Me, being a capitalistic boy, could never imagine how Social Democracy could work. I asked if they would pay for the hostel if they had the chance to sleep for free, like even openly walk in and sleep. They insisted they would still pay. Anna supported it by saying that the hostel master is friendly. I really really felt they are really so stupid. The hostel master isnt friendly at all. He talks rubbish and is just trying to pass his day. Just because someone says a few words to you, you would open your wallet happily for them.
So, despite having thoughts of sneaking in a 2nd night and not paying for the hostel, I resisted voicing my thoughts to them, cos they will hate me and bao-to me.
Nevertheless, the hostel master caught me resting inside that night, and I had to pay for that one night. It was alright though, bcos I needed Tons of rest, after walking about 20-30 km on a half broken leg and backpack. That night, the 2 girls went into their room, while I slept in the main area, which is in the attic. There was only 1 tiny portable heater which they took into their room. I realise that the main area was utterly cold. And to my horror, this hostel has no other heating system. That night, I took the chance to explore this hostel. It was huge. It has alot of doors. Doors that open to the attic. And even a backdoor to the outside. And other rooms that are abandoned. I realised that the next night, I could possibly sneak in through the backdoor, without the girls knowing and sleep in the many toilets near the laundry and backdoor area. No other people comes here, except for the hostel master. My only concern, was him checking at night. So that night, I threw big pieces of litter in the toilets that I planned to sleep in. My logic is that if I wake up the next morning and the litter is still there, it means that the hostel master does not check at night. I used big pieces of food, to make sure he does not miss them.
I woke up at 6am, completely freezing. So I put on my 9 layers of clothes. I thought: why did I pay 120 kr to sleep in 9 layers of clothes. Ridiculous. 120kr is really cheap for a hostel, but a hostel with no heating system is not worth a single penny. In winter, you need a heating system more than a bed. It ensures your survival. Your body would refuse to sleep no matter how comfy the bed is. Bcos you might just never wake up again.
At 6am, I went to collect my rubbish. And they are still there. Happy, I went back to bed in 9 layers of clothes. I slept till 3pm. The girls went hiking. Since I completely busted my leg, I decided to rest. Hiking in Lofoten sounds stupid to me anyway. And I was glad it was a sunday. No buses were functioning. So we had to stuck here anyway.
At 3pm, I realised that they girls cooked their own lunch. Testament again, to the individualistic nature of whites. Asians would definitely share their food with you.
I took a slow limping walk around the hostel. And saw things like this (below). The skull of some strange sea creature caught.
I crossed the road to the other side and tried to get to higher ground for a view. I climbed this ridiculous stairs. It was a climb really. The steps are all frozen, like a slide. You cannot walk on it. I used the railings to pull myself up.
And I got a view. The long building is my ridiculous hostel. It has a great location, but poor facilities, characteristic of a tourist trap.
I continued my walk and planned to go to the cliffs.
I reached the cliff area. It was already quite dark, like 4-5pm. I attempted to walk to the cliffs, but the snow ground was so bad. Every step my feet sink into the ground and I would fall. And I would scream for the pain of my right leg. Some snow would get into me, freezing me. The icy wind mocks my face. And the dark sets in quicker that I could pull my feet out of the snow. At this point, I felt really really really lonely. For once, this feeling gripped me, crippling me, reducing me nearly to some tear. My thoughts went crazy. But I decided to carry on, and fight till I reach the cliffs. At times, I would crawl on the ground, to make my surface area bigger, so I would not sink so deep into the ground. Eventually, I reached the cliffs and climbed a few rocks, slowly, carefully, so as not to hurt my leg or exert too much pressure on it. The wind did not help my case. One mis-step and I could fall real bad. And being alone, there would be no one around to help me, nor hear my scream. Eventually, I reached the end, looked over the dark artic sea. And at this point, I felt like crying. It was not really out of self-pity. Feelings that I made it, despite being completely alone, with a painful leg that cannot straighten itself, and still I crawled all the way through and up. What was I trying to prove I do not know. Proving to myself that I am not as useless with a broken leg? Proving that I did not come here bcos of the german girls? Proving to myself that I did not need their help or phony words? I do not know.
That night, I went back to the hostel to rest. The girls asked me where I went. I said to the cliff. Anna asked if I climbed it. "yes". Anna "With your leg like this?!". I did not reply. Not knowing how to feel towards that comment.
I stayed there, eating my dinner. We had a world map and started looking at it. I wonder if they are trying to alleviate feeling guilty, or was it one of their streaks of individualism again. They decided to plan my europe trip for me. Later, I was to lose my notebook (sorry weiming, i really feel terribly guilty) with all the info in it. I sat there and the hostel master came. Talking cock again. He saw me and said "are u staying for 1 more night?" I said no. Then he said "then you cant stay here. check out time is 12pm" I said sorry, would leave asap as i finish eating. And he remarked "and I dont want to see u in this area as well. its for guests." Well. did the girls said he was nice? ya right.
So I went out, and was prepared to spend some time in the woods here (above). I was expecting the see the northern lights. I had told the girls that it would be a clear night, as I had checked the weather forecast. I found out when I got out, that I read it on the wrong day. I had slept through the clear night in the hostel the previous night. This, plus the fact that I arrived one day late to see the lights (cos the german boys said they saw it the night b4), and was few minutes late to see the lights 2 days ago (the girls said they saw). All these made me think that I was not fated to see. But however fate tries to push me, I still believe that God has the final say. And it shall be good to me.
So I put on every piece of clothing I had, and looked like a puffed up muslim militant.
That night, I went for a walk w the girls. But my bag was too heavy, so I dumped it beside some trees. And walked with them to the beach (below, except that it was too dark then. I took it e next morning). The beach was nice, but utterly cloudy. They asked me when did the forecast said the clouds would go away. I said 11pm. It was 1030pm then, knowing that they cant stand cold, and would not last more than 10mins out there. I could not tell them that I read the forecast wrongly and it was suppose to be yesterday. I really really could not trust them anymore.
On the way back, Anna keep asking me whats my plan for the night, where do I sleep. I did not want to lie to her, so I said its a secret. Which led her to keep probing and trying to make me tell by saying how nice she was to me. Unconvinced. Walking back, they insisted that I had passed the place where my bag was. I really did not think the same. Anne said she passed the mailbox way back then. And twice she said that. I rmbed a mailbox, but not this one. Since she has never been wrong, I trusted her and went back, and it was the wrong spot. I cursed that I should have trusted myself instead. This incident actually gave me more confidence in my street ability.
That night, I sneaked in earlier than planned, since the Northern lights would not be seen and it was too cold.
So I dumped my bag underneath a cabin.
And sneaked into the toilet to sleep. I would wake up at 2am, and suffocate. So I risked it, and went into one of the empty rooms, and slept on the comfy bed. I set my alarm at 4am, to wake up and get back to the toilet. Since the oxygen level in the toilet seens to run out in 2 hours. 6am would be a good sneaking out time. I slept till 630am and was horrified to see the skies completely bright. I thought winter sun only comes out at 8 or 9am. Seems like in the arctic, the sun comes out early. So carefully, I sneaked out from the backdoor. I still left my bag under the cabin.
Then, I took a walk, and decided to check if the bicycle (which I saw lying one the side of the road the day b4) was still there. It was. So I took it, so save me from my slow walking. The girls were to leave at 11am. I dont have much time to walk. However, I discovered that my leg was no good on bicycle. I could not flex. So I cycled with a left leg, to the beach, which looked amazing in the morning.
Feeling completely alone, yet thrilled by the sight, I decided to send 4 sms to friends.
Next, I paddled back to the cliff which I emo-ly climbed yesterday. To see how it's like in daylight. And I even went further :)
On the way there.
Stretch! even with an injured leg. Or fall! And become worse.
Lesson learnt: Do not step on green on cliff edges. Bcos whats supporting the green underneath may not be solid rock. It might just be a few branches. And it would not support you weight and you'll fall. I almost did.
I could not believe that I manage to climb this steep cliff, alone, with an injured right leg which still cannot straighten itself. I start to believe that I possess some special ability for climbing. I even could take a picture of myself doing that using a 10-sec timer. This shows how quick I could get up!
That is a really steep cliff. I literally pasted my whole body onto the rock, to increase surface friction, and inched myself upwards.
At the top of the cliff, it was awesome.
Zoom in below, you can see the range of icy mountains further. It thrills me that I would be going deeper into the arctic 2 days later. And the girls would be heading home. :).
Do not fall John. You'll never make it back alive. If the cliff dont kill you, the sub-zero salt water would.
I wonder how the birds fly here.
At times on the cliff, its so unbelievably windy, that my hat, even notebook gets blown away. And I could almost feel like I would be blown away if I did not sit down. I have a video of just how windy it is. Not gonna post it here though.
Tiny yellow house, is the hostel. Say bye bye. Im happy that im leaving this place, to somewhere even more awesome :). And I'll show you just why.
End of friday night (5th march) to monday morning, first 3 days.
End of Lofoten, Stamsund.
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